![]() However, this India ink enables you to make strokes that are thin without compromising your ability to scan them into your computer.Īs far as cons go, Bombay ink hasn’t given me any grief as of yet. Some inks, especially those that boast tiny hairline strokes, don’t play nice with the scanner (ahem, walnut ink, iron gall ink, and Higgins ink). Like most black India inks, Bombay inks scan very well! I used Bombay ink to create all the hand-drawn/written components of the tulip-themed fabric invitation below (the invitation will be showcased in an upcoming blog post), and I was happy with how well it cooperated with the scanner. ![]() ![]() There was no problem with the Bombay ink its somewhat thin viscosity cooperates with different sizes of nibs to draw very fine lines! Crow quill pens have an itty-bitty nib, and if you pair those tiny nibs with thick inks, you can run into issues. First of all, I was very pleased at how nicely the ink worked with a crow quill pen. ![]() I mean, it does exactly what it’s supposed to do: it writes well and proves impervious to water.Ī couple of months ago, I used Bombay ink to create a line drawing of poppies, which I then painted over with watercolors. Martin’s Bombay India Ink, it’s a fantastic ink that you won’t regret having in your artillery. While I don’t think there is anything shout-it-to-the-rooftops special about Dr. It’s hard not to like India Inks in general they are smooth, waterproof, archival, and wonderful for illustration and calligraphy purposes. All of these inks are excellent choices if you wish to create black calligraphy however, it’s a good idea to get to know them a little bit better before you make a buying decision. Martin’s Bombay India Ink, Speedball India Ink, and Winsor & Newton Black Calligraphy Ink. Today, we’re going to examine three more inks to conclude the comparison: Dr. But possibly this instrument you are going to change has little value or may not have a good sound anyway.In Part I of the Black Calligraphy Inks Comparison series, you were introduced to Ziller, Sumi, and Higgins inks. I'm afraid I would never let anyone do this sort of thing to one of my instruments - even an expert maker or restorer. You should get advice from a real instrument maker or skilled restorer and it's only too easy to ruin an instrument. That fiddle you have also seems a bit strange as it appears to only have holes for the sound, and not proper "f" holes. Some black varnish would be the thing - or inlaid black wood such as that used in the edge purffling. You would need to paint it on with a brush, but I would think that ink would not be the correct thing anyway. I apologize if this isn't the right forum for this question, you folks have been very helpful to me in the past. I'll be stripping off the current very cheap varnish and replacing it after the decorations are on. I have two Lamys, although I am thinking that a calligraphy pen would be better? Or perhaps a very fine brush? The wood I will be doing the decorations on is pine (front) and maple (back). Everything I read about the fiddles simply say 'black ink' without specifying what kind of ink! To give you an idea of what kind of decoration I am talking about, attached is a closeup of the rosing of a Hardanger fiddle. I'm making something of a modified Hardanger fiddle out of a violin, and I was wondering what sort of ink would be good to use on wood, that could be varnished over without smearing and stay black for a long time (ideally at least a century). (the usual violin varnish is made from shellac or other types of resin, drying oil like linseed or walnut, and alcohol). Among other things the fiddle features decorations drawn in black ink on the wood that is then varnished over. ![]() I'm doing some research prior to ripping a violin apart and turning it into a Hardanger Fiddle (aka Hardingfele) which is a type of fiddle native to Norway. ![]()
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